As a blustery autumn dawn settles on Schecnk Avenue, the first thing you notice at the East New York Farmer’s Market is the last shopper in a lengthy line that snakes from around New Lots Avenue. For that shopper, it’s going to be a long wait.
Lawrence Cox, a retired East New York native, is at the tail end of the stream of shoppers. He sports a Yankee cap that shields his dark brown eyes from the blinding morning sun, casting a shadow over his worn and wrinkled face.
Cox waits patiently as he has done every Saturday through a 21-person line until he finally reaches the fishmongers’ tent where the morning sea bass catch is scaled and sold.
“I’m here for the market at 8 a.m. and people are lined down the block. I wait for the fish, and my wife gets the vegetables,” said Cox. He gestures toward an elderly woman as she zig-zags down Schecnk Avenue between the tents of 23 local gardeners and three regional farmers.
Cox suffers from cardiovascular arrhythmia – know colloquially as an irregular heartbeat. His chronic condition results from malnutrition induced coronary artery disease, Cox said. He is coming to the farmer’s market to get his poor diet, and consequently his heart disease, under control.
“Without this place here my wife, myself, and many others would be worse off,” said Cox.
Cox is one of nearly 48,000 people in East New York who suffers from cardiovascular disease (CVD), which refers to a class of diseases that affect the heart or blood vessels. According to the 2006 East New York community health profile, CVD hospitalizations grew 35 percent since 1996 – 25 percent higher than in Brooklyn, and 35 percent higher than in New York City overall.
The East New York Farmer’s Market, co-founded in 1996 by Cornell University, the Pratt Institute and local farmers, strives to combat these disconcerting statistics. The 20-tent, outdoor market provides fresh, organic, urban-grown produce and locally harvested fish to this malnourished community.
In dozens of inner city areas nation-wide, nutrient rich food is less accessible than processed and nutrient depleted foods. East New York is no exception.
One reason is because the food is grown and harvested far from where it is sold and consumed. Extended transit times between a food source and consumer make heart healthy food difficult to come by, said farmer and market contributor Mike Rowgowski.
“A lot of fruit and vegetables are coming cross-country, or maybe from another country altogether. As food sits, it degenerates and loses nutrients,” said Rowgowski.
And the reason food comes from across the country, Rowgowski said, is simply because it’s cheaper. The result: grocers end up selling produce depleted of nutrients. And a diet deficient in nutrients—such as potassium and magnesium, which are found in bananas and tomatoes—is detrimental to heart health.
Importing produce, Rowgowski explained, is sometimes cheaper for supermarkets than buying locally.
“[Stores] don’t want to buy our produce,” he said. “Although it’s cheap, they can save even just ten cents getting stuff from California or Florida.”
Supermarkets and consumers may have the same hindrances to purchasing local and organic foods — high prices. For many residents in this low-income community, heart-healthy food is too expensive, even at the farmer’s market where one pound of veteables can cost from $3 to $5 dollars.
According to a 2006 New York State Department health study, risk of CVD is doubled for New York residents with an income lower than $25,000. In East New York, that would mean 40 percent of the population is twice as likely develop CVD than average New Yorkers.
Some market shoppers say diminished financial resources are at the root of East New York’s CVD prevalence. Although Mike Rowgoski said locally grown produce is relatively inexpensive, market shopper and mother of two Preme Brewster said for many it is still too much.
“It takes resources to keep your heart-healthy,” said Brewster. “This is a low-income area so people buy what they think is cheap – stuff at the grocery store.”
The New York City government is taking steps to confront cost barriers. In order to alleviate the financial burden on low-income families so they may gain access to heart-healthy food, the Bloomberg Administration created the Healthy Bucks program in 2004.
The initiative provides $4 dollar coupons to eligible individuals to purchase produce at farmer’s markets in lower income neighborhoods such as the East New York.
Farmer’s market representative David Vigil said a positive community health impact is quantified by market income. Between 2007 and 2008, market income grew around 20 percent.
“Income growth indicates the success of our work,” said Vigil. “It tells us how much healthy, local produce is being sold in the community through Healthy Bucks and food stamps to those who need like as senior citizens and needy mothers.”
The local healthy food movement is gaining ground outside the confines of New York City. United States Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack said Tuesday morning at a food security conference in Des Moines, Iowa. He said the Obama administration supports local food production and keeping consumers closer to food sources.
“As we focus on health care, and as the health care debate focuses more specifically on prevention and wellness, people are going to be exceedingly interested in fresh food and food that’s nutritious,” said Vilsack last week in an NPR interview.
Prevention and wellness are the very interests East New York Farmer’s Market was founded to satisfy, said market cofounder Johanna Willins.
In 1996, Willins collaborated with the Pratt Institute for Community Development and the Cornell University Cooperative Extension in an effort to address health issues in East New York. The goal was to provide the community with fresh fruits and vegetables that are grown in the heart of Brooklyn using urban gardening techniques.
“People here don’t know what a carrot looks like when it comes up. All they know is a carrot in a can, a pea in a can, spinach in a can,” said Willins. “For heart reasons, you got to get away from the salt and use more herbs for flavoring.”
As a mother, Preme Brewster shares Willins’ zeal for health consciousness. In the Brewster household, cooking with nutrient-rich produce and protein is a priority.
“I want to live a long prosperous life [for my girls],” said Brewster as she shuffles through a wooden barrel of white and yellow ears of corn. “If being healthy means waking up early every Saturday for fresh produce, so be it.”


